The Tiger’s Nest. © TheRealDestinations 2022

Bhutan’s not like other places you visit in the world, and believe me, you’ll see why the minute you arrive. You can’t just show up here and wander on your own. (Unless you’re an Indian national, some complicated history we’ll explain later.) Until relatively recently, it has basically hidden from the modern world, secluded in its remote valleys beneath the high Himalayas. This is a vision of East Asia, shielded from the turbulent events of the 19th and 20th centuries, coming to terms with the modern world that now surrounds it.

Travel in Bhutan basically requires a custom package tour, complete with your own private guide, driver, hotel accommodations, and transportation provided by said driver. All for a pretty reasonable, set rate, once you factor everything that goes into it.

This is a monarchy, not unlike Thailand today or the rest of Asia before the turn of the 20th century, where the king is still very much revered. The people still wear traditional dress, whether by choice or regulation, while this is becoming less of the case with the younger generation. The architecture, even the new stuff, still very much reflects its history.

Like I said, this place is different, the closest you’ll get to a living time capsule of Asia before the 20th century blew in like a hurricane.

Getting There:

There’s no getting around this one, only Druk an Bhutan Air fly into the country. But you can still get close using award miles, with Kathmandu or Bangkok being the closest options, minimizing the amount you need to complete the last hop into Bhutan.

United MileagePlus: [via Bangkok] Thai Airways, Singapore Airlines

American AAdvantage: [via Kathmandu] Qatar Airways via Doha. This is my preferred route for two reasons. 1. You get to stop in Nepal, for a quick compare/contrast to your next stop, in a country that’s very cheap with plentiful options for tourists. 2. It’s the cheapest option from there to Bhutan, flying by the highest peaks of the Himalayas on a short, 1 hour flight.

The courtyard of a Dzong, a versatile monastery/fort/government center. © TheRealDestinations 2022

The Good: 

  • A glimpse back in time into a hidden kingdom high in the Himalayas, with your own personal guide and driver to help connect with locals, deal with logistics, and all the while providing context.

  • History is alive here, not just in the buildings and traditions, but in the very dress, customs, food and even modern architecture that surround you.

  • The closest you’ll ever get traveling away in both space and time.

The Bad:

  • Obviously private guides and drivers with rates set by the government isn’t going to be cheap, especially compared to other destinations in this part of the world, such as Nepal, India, or Thailand. But for you used to US/Europe prices, it’s actually very reasonable.

  • If you’re going back in time, nightlife and gourmet dining options are going to be lacking. That being said, your guide will provide options for how the locals celebrate a night out, and won’t fail to plan in stops at tasty restaurants with more of a homemade touch.


 

the Summary:

It’s cliche to bring up Shangri-La, but you’ll be surprised how well this real place lines up with the legendary story of a small, peaceful kingdom hidden from the modern world in the Himalayas. And the way you see it will guarantee that this will not be like your other travels.


 

Bhutan

 

© YC 2022

© YC 2022

The month of May up in the mountains, and Spring is still very much in bloom.
© YC 2022

Your indispensable local guide while in Bhutan: Planner, tour guide, local expert, and friend.

Traditional flag ceremony. © YC 2022

To understand Bhutan today, you have to keep in mind that it’s very secluded in this corner of the world, and that has allowed this kingdom to basically shield itself from the modern world far longer than anywhere else. Think back to the experience of Japan and China (or just about any other Asian monarchy) during the 18th and 19th centuries in response to a changing world: first try to keep it out, then eventually come to terms with it.

But in Bhutan’s cases, that coming to terms didn’t start until the 1970s. If you look at events in Sikkim, a neighboring Himalayan kingdom that’s no longer with us, you’ll begin to understand why. But Bhutan was careful to modernize on its own terms. Television and the internet were not permitted until 1999. Most of the older generation still wear traditional dress in everyday life. Tourism, as you see, is highly regulated: low volume, premium tours & tourists. The news of focusing on “Gross National Happiness” is a reflection of the overall mindset around prioritizing social stability overall.

Plan for at least 4-5 days here, more if you want to see the snowcapped High Himalayas. While the country is relatively small, the twisting mountain roads means it can take a while to travel between key destinations. Your private guide will arrange the entire itinerary with your input, including hotel accommodations and meals. Your private driver will take care of all transportation from the moment you arrive at the airport to your departure.

While there’s not much nightlife, do try and experience the distinctly local flavor of it, with the locals. Your guide can arrange the details. Food will be simple but familiar and tasty, with restaurants serving with a homemade touch. You’ll find the ubiquitous chili cheese, a fiery blend of local cheese and hot chili. This is probably one of the last corners of the world where your data roaming won’t work, but there’s Wifi at the hotels. Tour rates are uniformly set by the government, so choose based on quality. I used Bridge to Bhutan, and was very happy with the results.


When to Visit

Given its altitude, winters in Bhutan are cold and snowy. Late Spring and Summer months are recommended, along with early Fall.

Language Barrier

In a sense, none thanks to your private guide.

Price Level

$250/day, but keep in mind this includes hotel, guide, transportation…basically everything except the flights.

Getting There

80K miles on Star Alliance or OneWorld carriers to reach Kathmandu, then around another $450 for the roundtrip flight to Bhutan.

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