The local boat. © TheRealDestinations 2014

The local boat. © TheRealDestinations 2014

In the vast tropical ocean that is the South Pacific, it's easy to lose perspective on how different these tiny specks can be, when viewed against the vast blue expanse of the Pacific. Fiji is actually one of the largest islands in this part of the world, home to large numbers of people who live hours away from the nearest beach. Still, it's close enough to Australia to attract large numbers of tourists, so it’s not quite a remote, idyllic South Pacific island. 

The first thing you notice on the main island of Fiji is how different it is from the image marketed by the pricey water bottles, shipped impractically around the world. There's actually a heavy agricultural presence on the main island, not some vast pristine interior of rainforest and sparkling waterfalls. Similar to other parts of the world, the best sand and clearest water are actually off the coast of Fiji, among its smaller islands. 

Fiji is by no means a quick or easy trip from the US, especially compared to Hawaii. But this is the South Pacific, home to the kind of vast, shallow corals that you just won't find elsewhere. You'll notice this at the beach, where you’ll notices something missing—waves. Just crystal clear water gently lapping on white sand, like a big salty lake.

United MileagePlus: Air New Zealand

American AAdvantage: Qantas. Fiji Airways (American Airlines only, non-OneWorld)

Delta Skymiles (good luck…): Korean Air

Healthy corals attract vast schools of fish at these and other sites around the Yasawa islands just off of Fiji. © TheRealDestinations 2014

Healthy corals attract vast schools of fish at these and other sites around the Yasawa islands just off of Fiji. © TheRealDestinations 2014

The Good: 

  • It's relatively easy to fly here, and prices are reasonable, thanks to the numbers of Australian visitors that come for a tropical getaway. You'll see the full range of accommodation options and types of travelers here, not just honeymooners on a luxury getaway.

  • Vibrant, healthy corals off Fiji's numerous smaller islands that are still able to support diverse marine life, accessible to even snorkelers thanks to the shallow reef formations. If you've got the time, there's even more remote, infrequently visited islands farther out to explore.

  • Constant, evenly warm climate year round without getting hot, plus a drier microclimate on the Western side where the popular Yasawa islands sit. So consistent sunshine and comfortable temperatures at Fiji's most visited islands with some of it's best beaches and reefs.

The Bad:

  • The main island of Fiji, Viti Levu, is NOT the tropical beach getaway you've been imagining, nor does it have the island's best reefs. But it is where you have to fly in and out of. You'll need to transfer to a high speed ferry or other more expedited methods to reach what you're looking for.

  • Most Fijians, however, live on the main islands, where you're probably not spending most of your holiday in Fiji. So don't expect too much in the way of authentic, local culture or experiences if you're spending most of your time in the idyllic tropical island surroundings of Fiji's smaller, more remote islands.

  • Unless you're splurging for the seaplane and the flight times align well, expect to use up two days arriving and departing, plus another 1/2 day in transit to the smaller island, each way.


 

the Summary:

Fiji is probably the most accessible destination in the South Pacific. It's much easier and cheaper to get to from Australia and New Zealand, with far more non-luxury resort options than Tahiti or Rarotonga. It's also much better connected to easier to get around than the other, less visited islands in this region. If you've always wanted to see the South Pacific and a luxurious romantic getaway for two isn't in the cards yet, Fiji's probably your best bet. 


 

You squint into the sun, stepping off the pier and strap into a cosy seat in a single engine seaplane with vintage controls and a seasoned Aussie pilot. In a few minutes, you're soaring over the clear, coral specked waters on a 20 minute flight to the Yasawa islands that otherwise would take the better part of the whole morning on the fast ferry.

This is Fiji, a collection of coral lined islands a few hundred miles northeast of Australia. Look out to sea, and waves break out at the edge of the horizon, sometimes even beyond. The edge where the sand meets the sea water is eerily still, like the edge of a lake. The sun's shining, it's 78F, and of course, there's an ocean breeze. Time to relax. 

Think of Fiji as round mainland will little islands surrounding it. Most locals live on the mainland, which still feels like a developing country in many ways, with extensive plantations, farms, and villages. The Fijians are a Melanesian people, and one basic thing to understand about the South Pacific is the distinction between the Melanesians and Polynesians, who are descendants of very different ancestors from very, very different time periods. The Melanesians are descendants of people who originally migrated to Australia and Papua New Guinea as far back as 40,000 years ago, like today's Aborigines. The Polynesians came much later, equipped with advanced sailing and navigation that allowed them to travel much farther out into the Pacific, to once uninhabited islands like Polynesia, New Zealand, and Hawaii only in the last couple thousand years.

All that to say: don't expect the people of Fiji to appear like, nor share the culture of the Polynesian people of Hawaii or Tahiti that most Americans are more familiar with.

 
Those sunsets... © The Real Destinations 2014

Those sunsets... © The Real Destinations 2014


I mean, would you have expected anything else from a place like this? © YC 2014

I mean, would you have expected anything else from a place like this? © YC 2014

The manta ray effortlessly glides by against a strong current that we can barely stay in place against.  © YC 2014

The manta ray effortlessly glides by against a strong current that we can barely stay in place against.
© YC 2014

Pro Tip: Start off the trip right and splurge for the seaplane to the Yasawas. Pick the northern most one to maximize your flight vs. the ferry service. Not only will you save a ton of time, but it's just a fantastic view on a nice day. 
It's not cheap, but factor in what you're saving by not taking the ferry, so that's worth roughly $50. 

Seaplane is the way to go for a quick and scenic hop to the Yasawas. © YC 2014

Seaplane is the way to go for a quick and scenic hop to the Yasawas. © YC 2014

The Yasawa and Mamanuca islands are Fiji's most popular beach destination, strung out as a long line of islands nearly a 100 miles north from just off the Western coast of the main island, Viti Levu. Not surprisingly, this is also where Fiji's main international airport is located, on the opposite side of the island from it's main city and capital of Suva. 

A fast catamaran ferry service shuttles people and cargo back and forth between these islands, but the journey can take several hours from the farthest north of the Yasawa islands. As a splurge—and a scenic one at that, consider the seaplane. Available for a few hundred dollars per passenger depending on occupancy and time of year, the air route can take you anywhere in the island chain in less than 30 minutes. Flying low over the ocean, peering down, you can soak in the view of the crystal clear ocean and the corals that grow just below the surface. 

For those with more time, Fiji contains far more islands to explore scattered much farther out. You'll see far fewer tourists out there, but the journey times are much longer. The main island of Viti Levu may appeal to those missing a good tropical forest hike given how you'll be passing through with likely overnight stays both on arrival and departure. Like its sister island Venua Levu, it's mostly covered with plantations, with the difference being the more rural feel of Venua given its lack of a city. 


When to Visit

Pretty much any time of year, especially in the Western side, where the Yasawas are situated. Jan-March might be their "wet" season, but much of it occurs at night in brief downpours.  

Language Barrier

As a former British colony with a Melanesian and Indian population, most people will understand some English. 

Price Level

Out in the touristy islands, comparable to home.

Getting There

~$1,300 Roundtrip or 80K miles on Star Alliance or OneWorld carriers. (This is one of those times when it really makes sense to use miles. You're getting ~$150 per 10K miles, instead of the benchmark $100.) 

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And this is just from snorkeling.© YC 2014

And this is just from snorkeling.

© YC 2014

The Yasawa islands.© YC 2014

The Yasawa islands.

© YC 2014