Friday night Fire performance in Gili Air. © TheRealDestinations 2018

Friday night Fire performance in Gili Air. © TheRealDestinations 2018

United MileagePlus: [via Bali] Singapore Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa

American AAdvantage: [via Bali] Cathay Pacific, Qatar Airways

Delta Skymiles (might actually work out here…): Korean/Delta + Garuda Indonesia to Lombok

There Bali, and there's Lombok. The neighboring island, similar in size and appearance, but far less developed and overrun with tourists. I'm not saying's it's like Bali, but without the tourists. Superficially, yes, it shares the picturesque green rice paddies, volcano, and wonderful beaches. But it's different. Like the rest of Indonesia, it's a predominately Muslim island, so it doesn't share Bali's Hindu heritage. Culturally, architecturally, even ambience-wise, it's not the same. Read on. 

To understand Lombok, you have to consider its far more prominent neighbor. Now, to someone who isn't Australian, Bali feels distant, exotic. But the reality, these days, is that Bali is rather close to Australia. And it's cheap. And Aussies love to travel. It's their Caribbean. Parts of Bali feel almost overrun with tourism. There's traffic, bad traffic, on key roads. Fortunately, it's also a fairly large island, so it's not hard to "get away" from the crowds. But they're unavoidable. 

Lombok is very different. Still relatively unknown to tourists, it's nowhere near as developed as Bali. Traditions are still strong here. Modern buildings and infrastructure are only recent arrivals. And, of course, there's the lovely Gili islands in between the two islands. Most transport boats stop at them on the way, so you might as well yourself. Definitely, do that. 

Vibrant corals off among the small islands off the west coast of Lombok. © TheRealDestinations 2018

Vibrant corals off among the small islands off the west coast of Lombok. © TheRealDestinations 2018

The Good: 

  • Beautiful beaches, lush mountainous rainforests, and picturesque rice terraces on a relatively undeveloped island without the hordes of tourists and sprawling vacation resorts of its more famous neighbor.

  • The Gili Islands, almost a destination in themselves. Gili Trawangan being the party island, Gili Meno is the secluded honeymoon island, and Gili Air is the just-right little slice of island paradise in between.

  • Getting off the beaten path, on the island less traveled. With the right guide, there's no shortage of authentic experiences on Lombok, where traditions are still very much alive in its numerous villages.

The Bad:

  • Apart from the highly developed Gilis, Lombok is relatively undeveloped. The tourism infrastructure is present, but nowhere near as developed as Bali. Hotels and other venues tend to be more basic, but more authentic. Uber is available, but very limited in coverage.

  • Don't expect to find the unique fusion of Hindu influences and tropical island culture that makes Bali unique, even among other picturesque tropical islands. Rather than centuries of exotic temples, Lombok has modest mosques. You will not see evocative fireside performances of the Ramanaya here.

  • While prices overall are cheap, alcohol is far more taxed, as expected given the predominate religion of the island. A drink can end up equaling the cost of a modest dish. Not much in the way of nightlife, obviously.


 

the Summary:

The Bali less traveled, Lombok is the place to go if you're looking for more authenticity and fewer crowds. It's not as easy to get around here, and the more authentic experiences need someone who's knowledgable and connected to show the way. But once you have the guide and a set of wheels, then it is quite and experience once you dive in. But if you're looking for a stylish resort and high-end food/shopping, stick to Bali. 


 

Among the subjects covered in the photos: We were fortunate enough to pass not just one, but two different wedding processions on the roads in Lombok. They're loud, vibrant affairs that call on the whole village to participate. A village specializing in painstaking traditional weaving, with naturally dyed fabrics. Traditional farming is still prevalent on the island, among picturesque rice terraces. A local guide leads a tour through a rare village that completely retains its traditional building materials. The sparkling finale to the fire show takes unique advantage of the beach to safely demo the finale. 

 

Weddings are a whole-village affair on Lombok, with elaborate processions on the road including both bride and groom parties. © YC 2018

Weddings are a whole-village affair on Lombok, with elaborate processions on the road including both bride and groom parties. © YC 2018

Ingredients for a sunset. Ocean. Facing west. Clear skies.  © YC 2018

Ingredients for a sunset. Ocean. Facing west. Clear skies.
© YC 2018

Still active Mt. Rinjani sitting at the center of Lombok. © YC 2018

Still active Mt. Rinjani sitting at the center of Lombok.
© YC 2018

Pro Tip: While relaxing in the Gili Islands, stay in a hotel near the western side for the sunsets. Gili Air is my favorite, but if you want to party, go with Trawangan. Time it on a Friday night and ask which hotel is having the fire show. 

Another picturesque sunset in the Gilis. © YC 2018

Another picturesque sunset in the Gilis. © YC 2018

With towering—and still active—Mt. Rinjani at its center, Lombok features a variety of completely different landscapes. From mountaintop views of the rainforest waterfalls to sandy beaches in warm tropic waters, it's all worth taking in over a generously spaced trip. With mostly narrow, mountainous, winding roads, it can take much longer to get around the island than distances would suggest. Seafood is relatively plentiful here, with more modest options overall. 

Lombok, then, is not a place for vacation. It's somewhere you go to travel and experience. And when that's done, kick back and relax in the Gili islands. Gili Air consists of mom and pop sized operations without the mega-resorts. It's an island that essentially embodies the desert island experience—while still offering the comforts of home. 


When to Visit

Peak of rainy season is January and early February. We arrived mid-Feb, and the rain wasn't too bad most days, though it had been pouring right before. We were lucky enough to get mostly sunny weather actually. So, go after mid-Feb. Summer is peak season, so ideally go before or after. 

Language Barrier

Definitely a factor. Lombok just isn't built up or accustomed to tourism as Bali is. Some of the population might understand a little English. 

Price Level

~70% cheaper than home.

Getting There

~$1,000 Roundtrip or 75K miles on Star Alliance or OneWorld carriers. 

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The spectacular hilltop hotel overlooks the rainforests of central Lombok.© YC 2018

The spectacular hilltop hotel overlooks the rainforests of central Lombok.

© YC 2018

The wedding party takes up the whole road with dozens of participants with music playing away and a very festive vibe.© YC 2018

The wedding party takes up the whole road with dozens of participants with music playing away and a very festive vibe.

© YC 2018

Our village guide demonstrates the natural bubble blowing leaf from what has to be a very soapy tree.© YC 2018

Our village guide demonstrates the natural bubble blowing leaf from what has to be a very soapy tree.

© YC 2018