A hammock, a beach, and cheap drinks to pass the hours. © TheRealDestinations 2017
United MileagePlus: via Manila. Singapore Airlines, Air China, EVA Air, Asiana, Turkish Airlines, ANA
American AAdvantage: via Manila. Cathay Pacific, JAL, Malaysian Airlines, Qatar Airways
Delta SkyMiles (might work out here…): to Palawan: Philippine Airlines. via Manila: China Airlines, China Southern, Korean Air.
If you can't tell immediately, this norther corner of Palawan island in the Philippines is a beach destination, and an excellent one at that. Having only recently emerged out of tourism obscurity given its remote location, El Nido and the neighboring Coron Islands still have a certain undeveloped feel. The volumes of visitors here just aren't enough to sustain blocks of gated off mega-resorts and overbuilt entertainment districts...yet. Hopefully the sheer distance from the main city on an island that already sits on the western fringes of the Philippines keeps it that way.
On top of the expected tropical beach getaway elements here, this area is home to something unique. Over eons, the limestone bedrock here had eroded down into steep, almost vertical islands large and small. The numerous, dramatically eroded vertical faces of these rocks dot the whole landscape, stretching out into the horizon in every direction. While most tropical islands are flat corals, these are dramatic vertical gardens, almost like the towering volcanic formations of Tahiti.
Unlike South Pacific though, prices here will be a bargain. Like elsewhere in South East Asia, you'll get the benefit of incredibly beautiful sights and scenery while paying barely over $1 for a beer.
The dramatic limestone landscapes adds a unique scenic element to an already picture perfect ocean vista. © TheRealDestinations 2017
The Good:
Stunning beaches and islands to hop around, looking out into an ocean populated with endless other islands stretching up into the air, just over the horizon. Also, temperatures stay mild most of the year.
Easier to reach now thanks to recently introduced direct air service from Manila. (Though don't expect these niche flights to be frequent or cheap, see below)
Bargain pricing for accommodations, food, everything. You're still in South East Asia, even if the surroundings look far more luxurious.
The Bad:
Getting here is still going to be a hassle, to some degree. The only international connection will be via Manila. From there, either fly direct via a niche air service, or journey here from the main city of Puerto Princesa after visiting the attractions farther south. Even from there, it's either a flight or 8 hour bus.
You're coming here for the beach, let's be clear. Not a whole lot of culture, history, or authentic local culinary experiences to be found in surrounding areas, which is to be expected given the fact that you're in the far corner of the outer island in the archipelago.
the Summary:
If you're looking for just the perfect beach to unwind for a while, away from the crowds, this place is it. If money is a consideration, I'd be hard pressed to find a better combination of incredible scenery and bargain prices than you'll find around El Nido and the Coron Islands.
There are obviously many islands in the Philippines you could visit—and yet, this place stands out. Perhaps it's not overcrowded and overdeveloped like Borocay, or the dramatic limestone cliffs that plunge into the ocean, or maybe it's the tucked away, palm tree lined beaches completely isolated by said limestone cliffs. With so many islands and countless miles of twisting coastline, it's good to know that there will be far more space to accommodate far more visitors here should it comes to that.
When it comes to food, it would be difficult to measure up against the other food cultures in a region that includes heavyweights like Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia. The extended US influence during the early decades of the 20th century certainly has not helped.
Distances are short, but the only way to get around these parts is by boat. © YC 2017
Pro Tip: After touring some top hidden away beaches and islands, negotiate with the locals for a quick ride out to your favorite beach for some uninterrupted quality time on the sand (make sure they'll come back for you for the other half of the price). In between the tour boats, which only come for a little while, you'll practically have the whole beach to yourself for the day.
Pro Tip: As I said, air service to El Nido and Coron are still pretty new and niche routes. Air Swift is the only airline that flies this route, and you won't find it on the usual booking engines. Instead, you'll have to book directly as a separate ticket from your flight to Manila.
Sunset over the islands in the horizon. © YC 2017
Days spent here are pretty similar to other beach getaways. You can choose from swimming or snorkeling on one of the day-tours leaving in the morning, explore some hidden beaches on your own, or just relax at a nearby hammock. The small town of El Nido is a good option to stay for access to boats, nearby beaches, and a variety of places to eat, drink, etc. Alternatively, Coron island features it's own small town that can be reached by ferry or flown into its own airport.
Sadly, I only had time to visit El Nido and not Coron thanks to an ill-timed detour to see the whale sharks of Donsol (sightings were depressingly few in the days before I arrived the luck did not change. Just go to Cancun instead during mid-summer to see far more.) By most accounts, Coron is comparable to El Nido, offering much of the same variety in accommodations, tours, things to see, etc. Given their proximity, the best thing to do really is to see both and decide for yourself.
When to Visit
September is considered the peak of the rainy season, but otherwise the island has a fairly consistent climate. As a bonus, being the western-most island, it's the most shielded from typhoons that typically approach from the East.
Language Barrier
While the locals might not be fluent in English, the history of the US presence in the Philippines means that English education is fairly widespread from an early age. Given the area's dependance on tourism as the main economic activity, expect fairly good English knowledge for getting by.
Price Level
~70% cheaper than home.
Getting There
~$750 Roundtrip to Manila, or 75K miles on Star Alliance or OneWorld carriers. Add another ~$250 or so for the roundtrip to El Nido or Coron.
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Our village guide demonstrates the natural bubble blowing leaf from what has to be a very soapy tree.
© YC 2018